Oil From Clutch Housing

[chicken]

Keoke

Looking to put the new seal in this weekend, there was quite alot of oil coming out of the damaged seal, do you think i should take the clutch off as well and clean up (how do you get rid of the oil ?) maybe it's worth a look at the engine block seal as well ?

Thoughts

Rob

 

[Keoke]

Yes all oil should be cleaned up, a good cleaner to use is a spray on brake cleaner.--Keoke

 

[Bob_Spidell]

There is no 'seal' on the block, only a 'slinger' and/or a reverse Archimedes screw/scroll on the crank (unless someone's added one of the aftermarket seal kits).

 

[chicken]

Keoke

Well i got the new seal (which i thought was correct) by taking measurements off the old one, on fitting today i noticed that the seal was not a tight fit round the shaft so am now thinking that the so called proffesionals that rebuilt my gearbox put the wrong seal in !!!
The seal i have is 2" outside diameter and the number 137 stamped on it (is this 1.370" internal diameter ?) and my shaft measures 1.270 thereabouts ?
Do you know what size the seal should be ?

Rob

 

[Keoke]

NO Rob, I do not know what the ID of the seal is. However, I would suggest purchasing a proper replacement from one of the known Healey spares providers.--Keoke

 

[higgins]

Hi there,

I've just read this thread with great interest as this weekend I had a major oil consumption problem on my 100/6.

I participated on a 2 day mountainous rally in France where we drove in total some 20 hours and 660 kilometers.

To get to the rally was a Highway trip of some 270 km. I have to admit that this was the first time I actually drove that far at 3.500 rev nonstop (normally I trailor to rallyes).

The entire rally was up and down mountains so the engine was almost always runing on high revs.

On the second day the oil consumption of the car rose tremendously, I nearly had to refill some 5 liters of oil. The right hand side of the engine was wet, the complete chassis and the back boot had oil spots on it. One major leak seemed to have come from the right rear side of the valve cover. Didn't notice any oil having been burnt. The clutch also began slipping in low revs on 3rd and 4th which however stopped after a while.

After some deliberation, a colleague came up with the idea that it seems to be an underpressure problem. As a result, we removed the breather pipe from the rear carburator. We also notice that there was no pressure coming out of the breather pipe nor from the valve cover.

I run two K&N filters on my SU's and the breather puipe comes in through the front, not the back as on the original pancake filters.

With the breather pipe disconnected I drove the 270 km at 3.500 revs back home and guess what, oil consumption was reduced to a minimum.

So, I am wondering what has happened respectively what is going on? Should I be making any modifications?

One suggestion that I've had is to disconnect the bottom part of the breather pipe (the part coming from the engine) from the "T" and attach directly into an oil catch tank. The "T" on the valve cover should be sealed on one side an the other side should also be attached to an oil catch tank and no longer to the carb.

Any information, help, thoughts, are more than welcome.

 

[Keoke]

HE participated on a 2 day mountainous rally in France where he drove a total of some 20 hours.


On the second day the oil consumption of the car rose tremendously, I nearly had to refill some 5 liters of oil. The right hand side of the engine was wet, the complete chassis and the back boot had oil spots on it. One major leak seemed to have come from the right rear side of the valve cover. Didn't notice any oil having been burnt. The clutch also began slipping in low revs on 3rd and 4th which however stopped after a while


So, I am wondering what has happened respectively what is going on? Don't have a clue :laugh:

Should I be making any modifications.

Well considering that the loss of an engine was possible I would put the K&N"s in the bin and return the engine breathing back to original.---Keoke

 

[AUSMHLY]

Keoke

Well i got the new seal (which i thought was correct) by taking measurements off the old one, on fitting today i noticed that the seal was not a tight fit round the shaft so am now thinking that the so called proffesionals that rebuilt my gearbox put the wrong seal in !!!
The seal i have is 2" outside diameter and the number 137 stamped on it (is this 1.370" internal diameter ?) and my shaft measures 1.270 thereabouts ?
Do you know what size the seal should be ?

Rob

What is the correct way to press the oil seal in the clutch housing?
Flat metal lip towards engine or towards transmission.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

As a general rule, the side of the seal with the spring should go towards the fluid you are trying to contain; in this case the metal side should face the rear of the engine (your first two photos). A seal driver is good, but a flush seal can be tapped-in with a (preferably) plastic hammer (even with a driver, sometimes it's easier to start installing the seal with a couple easy taps with a hammer).

If prior seals have worn a groove on the shaft, install the new seal before or after the groove (in worst case, a 'redi-sleeve' may be called-for). An anomaly is the seal on the differential pinion: the differential 'snout' opening is chamfered, and the metal lip should be installed even with the inner, narrowest part of the chamfer.

 

[bob hughes]

My BJ7 leaked through the clutch housing drain hole when I bought it, so when the clutch started slipping I removed the gearbox and clutch hosing and renewed the seal in the clutch housing and fitted the aftermarket crank shaft seal with the engine in situ. It is fair to say that it did not resolve the problem of oil leaking through the clutch housing. I replaced the rubber seal when I rebuilt the engine and it still leaks a bit now.



Bob

 

[bob hughes]

You can shoot me down on this,

But when the crankshaft gets the journals ground down (if required) do they adjust the main bearings as well (if required). Then the seals may not fit properly ? I just accepted the new bearings with the crank shaft which had been balanced with all the other bits and never bothered to find out if anything else was adjusted.



Bob

 

[BobHaskell]

When crank journals are machined undersize (usually in 0.010" increments), corresonding oversize bearings are fitted. So the centerline shouldn't shift.